Detractors argue that it's pure nostalgia-driven hogwash. Either way, the facts are that Fender used both nitrocellulose and acrylic lacquers for s and 60s standard and custom colour finishes. Originally developed for cars of the period, you can identify which is which by the associated Dupont paint codes widely available online that are prefixed with either 'Lucite' acrylic or 'Duco' nitrocellulose. Clear top coats were always nitro, but not all custom colours had clear coats; if you see a white Strat with a yellow-ish hue, for example, it probably has a clear nitrocellulose top coat.
If it still looks very 'white', chances are there's no top coat. The same effect happens on Lake Placid Blue guitars that can appear more green with age. In fact acrylic paints were developed because they were more colourfast and didn't crack and check as easily as the older nitrocellulose paints. Nitro, however, made a nicer gloss by all accounts so what to use where was an ongoing process of trial, error and learning. Two 60s Lake Placid Blue Jazzmasters - but the left guitar has a nitro top coat, which has yellowed over time.
The nitrocellulose and acrylic components themselves act as binding agents in the paint that then need to be mixed in solvent in order to be sprayed properly onto a guitar, or indeed a car. Lacquer does "breath" in the sense that it is not a continuous coating but more resembles fish scales in the way it coats. IF there is some sonic difference it would not be due to breathing but rather more related to the thickness which may influence the damping effect on the body.
I know! The article is just really one-sided and acutely written. Judging by the source of the article, I am hardly surprised. I've never had any of my guitars finished in both nitro and then poly and then a brand new nitro coat again to test the differences.
I had a '72 Jazzmaster which I loved, better than the AVRI series but not as good as my '66 which is not as good as my ' Love them all though! You "gotta" get one of those '65 jazzys, so you can compare vintage with reissue with higher end reissue I'm really thankful, though, that you pointed me towards this mustang neck I strung her up the other day yeah, that didn't end well It was quite honestly so much more comfortable than any other neck I own, except perhaps my "La Patrie" classical But damn, does that neck feel amazing!
The wear on it is cool too, because it makes me play in other areas of the neck I don't normally venture to Hard to explain. I will say that I like nitro! I hope this isn't too far off topic since you are mainly talking vintage USA models..
The front and back were kind of dyed pale yellow, it wasn't paint but penetrated the wood quite a few thousands of an inch. It is strange but I have the same thing on a 87 mij Jaguar that I bought recently You can see on this pictures that under the thin poly sunburst paint, there is this very hard white plastic layer Is his wood pattern even real?
I had a black Fender Lead II back in the 's as with most of that time period the finish was "foggy", most started to chip and peel. It was the same for those who bought the 25th Anniversary Strat in '79, the silver paint was horrible. Jake, My experience backs up what you say.
I have never found a hard plastic coat under a vintage Fender Strat. Just someone else trying to sell their own I look at it this way. If this was indeed being done back around 63' just think of all the big name musicians, not to mention the music they created on Fender guitars.
Whether or not this coating existed doesn't seem to be an issue as I highly doubt that people were sitting around the radio of record player pointing out "hey now that sounds like a straight nitro finished guitar.
Good point. Definitely no hard plastic shell on it. He picked it down to bare wood. Fullerplast does exist and Fender used it sometimes to prep bodies. But the way that story spins it, distorts the facts. I prefer nitro because of the feel and the way it wears. It's also possible to get a thinner finish, so breathing aside, I think a thin finish helps a guitar resonate more. Is a heat gun hairdryer the only thing you used to strip that guitar Crumb? I'm going to paint our guitar player's MIM bass in nitro and if it's easy to strip the poly I'll do it before spraying nitro.
The poly is unreal thick and slick. All comments and user contributed articles are property of the posters. Thanks to all the surf bands, past and present. And thanks to all the fans who care about and keep surf music alive. Login Register.
Custom colors were introduced in Once again they were enamel. The same material they used in the auto industry. The enamel would not adhere to the stearate based nitocellulose sanding sealer. Acrylic lacquers were then developed by Dupont to be sprayed on material other than metal. In order for the paint to adhere, Fender began using a Sherwin Williams product called Homoclad. It was a penetrating, heavy solid, oil based sealer used as a barrier coat to to provide better adhesion for their guitars with custom colors.
It was applied by dipping the guitar bodies directly into a 55 gallon drum, filled with the product. ALL Fender guitars produced after used this product until , when Fender began experimenting with polyesters an undercoat. By , virtually all Fender guitar products used polyester as an undercoat, including necks. The reason the face of the pegheads were not sealed with polyester, is because type 'C' decals under the finish would not adhere to the product.
While it is true a few guitars may have squeaked by with homoclad, when homoclad wasn't available, they used a Fuller O'Brian product called Ful-O-Plast. It's obvious to me that those necks or bodies were stragglers, having to be reworked for some reason or another and not shipped after the change.
I'd like to make one thing clear There is no specific ratio. Enough poly was, and is sprayed to properly fill the grain while preventig a burn through while sanding. In , Fender began using polyuerthane as a topcoat.
It cured quicker. It had better clarity. It had more depth and gloss, and didn't melt when you accidently spilled on it. Fender then discontinued the use of polyester on the necks.
Polyurethane is a 2 part product using a catalyst. Fender has continued to use polyester, polyurethane, nitro, homoclad, and Ful-O-Plast. Nitro is not a superior finish. An electric guitar doesn't 'breathe' at db. My first year at Fender I personally painted approximately 46, guitars. I like polyester. I like Nitro colors too. But maybe I'll let the players that use poly ester or urethane speak for themselves More are available upon request.
Hope this helps, Mark K. BamaSurf likes this. Recommended Posts. Posted March 1, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options Another Tool Posted March 1, I don't know for sure but i'd say it was poly. Nitro is more expensive, so i don't see why the japanese would use it for the jagstang.
Geeto67 Posted March 1, What are you hoping to do with your body? Are you going to source a neck of ebay or are you hoping to buy mine and make one? Loco Posted March 1, Definitely polyurethane.
Geeto67 Posted March 2, Posted March 2, Another Tool Posted March 2, Yeah Geeto i was asking you. Posted March 6, Geeto67 Posted March 7, Posted March 7, Posted March 8, Posted March 9, Another Tool Posted March 9, Hey geeto, how are you spraying this jag-stang, with an air gun or can? I'm guessing that it's gonna be a can, if so, where are you getting your paint from? Geeto67 Posted March 9, Geeto67 Posted March 10,
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